Woven figured fabric.



No. 698,743. Patented Apr. 29, I902.

W. SCHOLES. WOVEN FIGUBED FABRIC.

Application filed Oct. 3, 1901.)

(No Model.)

Fla 2 INVENTOR: W 4a;

g im/ *r/ f WITNESSE UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE,-

WILLIAM SOI'IOLES, OF PHILADELPHIA, IENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR OF ONE- lIALFTO JOSEPH S. MAC ELROY, PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

"WOVEN FIGURED FABRIC,

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 698,743, dated April29, 1902.

Application filed October 3, 1901. Serial No. 77,368. (N specimens-l Toall whom it may concerm Be it known that 1, WILLIAM ScHoLEs, a citizenof the United States, residing at Front street and Tabor road, in thecity and county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania,

have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Woven FiguredFabrics, of which the following is a specification, reference being hadto the accompanying drawlugs.

My invention relates to one-ply woven figured fabrics having a finebinder-warp which binds the filling every shot and a coarsefiguring-warp which produces a figure on the face or back of the fabricat the will of a jacquard-machine and of which the weft-threads consistof coarse figuring-wefts which unite with the figuring-warps to ,formthe pattern and fine binderweft-threads inserted every few picks betweenthe figuring-wefts. By the words binder-warp and binder-weft I mean awarp or weft thread which is so fine that even when it appears upon thesurface of the fabric it is substantially without effect yarn beam forthe figuring Warp-threads. I

prefer to use a reed having sixteen splits to the inch and with onebinder-warp and two figuring-warps drawn in each split. Bothfiguring-warps may be drawn in one heddle. The figuring warp-threads aredrawn in tailcords solely operated by the jacquard, While the binderwarp-threads are drawn in-tailcords solely operated by the two journals,one journal up and onejournal down alternately each shot of weft. I

In the drawings, Figures 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are diagrammatic sections offabrics emb0dying my invention, the sections being taken every thirdshot by a fine binder-weft.

Figs. 1, 3, 5, and Barediagramm'atic sections of such afabric, taken inthe direction of the warp and showing different effects which may beproduced thereby, according to the manipulation of the figuringwarpthreads.

In Fig. 2 a, weft-section is shown, taken along the line 22, Fig.1,where all the figuring 'warps are thrown to the surface. In this examplethe figuring warp-threads may be supposed to be red and thefiguring'weftthreads alternately green and white. The finebinder-weftspreferably correspond in color to the figuring-warp and are supposed tobe red. The binder-warps may be any inconspicuous color. The figuringweft-threads may be any ordinarycotton, wool ,-jute, or paper filling ofthe usual coarse size.

My fabric differs from all other one-ply weaves in that by means of thebinder-weft I amable to throw the figuring-warp to the surface or backin such a way as to produce large solid-color grounds or effects, .whileat other times by variously manipulating the combinations of thefiguring-warps with the figuring-wefts a large number of intermediate ormixed shades may be produced. The solid-color effects are producedbytying the figuring-warps upon the surface by the fine binder-weft alone.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, A and B are the alternating figuring weftsor filling, of which A is supposed to be green and Bwhite. c is afinered binder-weft,-which"is thrown every third shot. a'bare thebinder-warps, which are quite fine, neutral in color, and which bind thefilling A B 0 every third shot. 0

which alternate with the binder-warps, but are independent of them intheir motions and by the manipulation of which the pattern is produced.

represents the red figuring warp -'threads,

In Fig. l the position of the figuring-warps for the production of thesolid-red color effect is seen. It will be observed that they float uponthe surface, being at all times above the figuring weft-threads, andeach is tied to the fabric by the binder-weft every sixth shot,alternate threads being bound by the alternating third shot. ByinvertingFig.1 the pattern will show only the green and white fillingalternating.

In Fig. 3 the figuring-warp is always thrown to the surface over thegreen filling and thrown to the back under the white filling, therebyproducing red and'white alternating on the surface. In a similar way thefiguringwarp may be thrown to the surface to cover the white thread, butthrown beneath the green thread, thereby producing green and redalternating on the surface.

In Fig. 5 a difierent effect from Fig. 3 is produced in that although,as in Fig. 3, the figproduced.

tiring-warp always covers the green filling the warps are caused to soalternate as to go to the surface four picks and then to the back twopicks and by the alternate motion of the figuring-warps a solid red withwhite dots is In like manner Fig. 6 is the converse of Fig. 5, producingsolid red with green dots.

It is evident that other combinations may be effected, as desired,according to the number of intermediate shots'required.

Thus far I have described my invention as applied to a fabric in whichthe binder-weft is thrown every third shot; but very much fabric I haveillustratedin Fig. 4 of the drawings. Here the figuring-warps are eachtied to the fabric every fourth shot, alternate threads being bound bythe alternating second shot.

It will be noticed that in all the variations of my invention thismarked characteristic is always retained-namely, that by throwing thefiguring warp-threads to the surface and tying them to the fabric by thebinder weftthreads alone large solid-color effects may be produced.

Having thus described my claim v A woven figured fabric, consisting ofthe combination in a single-ply fabric, of coarse figuring warp threads,fine binder Warpthreads, coarse figuring weft-threads and fine binderweft-threads; the latter threads being inserted alternately after one ormore figuring-wefts; the binder-warps always binding a singleweft-thread (either figuring or binder) invention, I

every shed; and the figuring-warps passing from the face to the back ofthe fabric, and vice versa, according to the requirements of the design,or being tied to the surface of the fabric by the binder weft-threadsalone for the production of solid ground, substantially as described.

\VILLIAM SOHOLES.

WVitnesses:

JAMES H. BELL, E. REESE.

